Revival Jewels

Rubel Frères and John Rubel & Co

Brenda KangComment

Originally from Hungary, John and Robert Rubel set up their first workshop in Paris, on 22 rue Vivienne, in 1915. Experienced jewellers who had already established a shop in Hungary, their extraordinary skills and craftsmanship were quickly recognized by the most renowned French jewellery houses such as Van Cleef and Arpels and Ostertag. Manufacturing for these brands, the Rubels subsequently also developed their own creations. In 1939, the Rubel brothers left Paris for New York to produce jewellery for Van Cleef and Arpels. The partnership was to last for another four years, before John and Robert opened their own firm on Fifth Avenue in 1943. While having dinner in a Latino nightclub in the Lower East Side, John was inspired by a flamenco performance  and quickly sketched the silhouette of one of the dancers onto a corner of the table cloth. The sketch was shown to Maurice Duvalet who transformed the sketch into a beautiful Spanish dancer brooch, set with rose-cut diamonds. This became the first of the iconic ballerina dancer series that Rubel and Van Cleef and Arpels were famous for. 

 

A bracelet made of platinum and white gold, diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald and onyx. Created by Frères Rubel for Van Cleef & Arpels for the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925. Image courtesy of http://richardjeanjacques.blogspot.hk.  

A bracelet made of platinum and white gold, diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald and onyx. Created by Frères Rubel for Van Cleef & Arpels for the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925.

Image courtesy of http://richardjeanjacques.blogspot.hk.  

The "Roses" bracelet, which worn the grand price at the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes”  in Paris, 1925. Manufactured by Frères Rubel in 1924.  Image courtesy of vancleefarpels.com

The "Roses" bracelet, which worn the grand price at the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes”  in Paris, 1925. Manufactured by Frères Rubel in 1924. 

Image courtesy of vancleefarpels.com

The "Roses" Brooch. Image courtesy of vancleefarpels.com

The "Roses" Brooch.

Image courtesy of vancleefarpels.com

The "Roses" bracelet, composed of 463 round brilliants, 293 rubies, and 108 emeralds mounted on platinum.  Image courtesy of https://unvraipetitbijou.files.wordpress.com

The "Roses" bracelet, composed of 463 round brilliants, 293 rubies, and 108 emeralds mounted on platinum. 

Image courtesy of https://unvraipetitbijou.files.wordpress.com

  The Manchette Bracelets, created by Van Cleef & Arpels for Daisy Fellowes and manufactured by Frères Rubel, circa 1928. The stunning choker necklace, made out of emerald beads and diamonds, can be separated and worn as two separate cuffs. Image courtesy of jewelsdujour.com

 

The Manchette Bracelets, created by Van Cleef & Arpels for Daisy Fellowes and manufactured by Frères Rubel, circa 1928. The stunning choker necklace, made out of emerald beads and diamonds, can be separated and worn as two separate cuffs.

Image courtesy of jewelsdujour.com

  The Cambodian style bracelet, made of platinum, with brilliant cut diamonds and baguettes, made by Frères Rubel workshop in 1938. it has a heavy aspect but conceals a mechanical system and springs in order to be opened and placed on the wrist.

 

The Cambodian style bracelet, made of platinum, with brilliant cut diamonds and baguettes, made by Frères Rubel workshop in 1938. it has a heavy aspect but conceals a mechanical system and springs in order to be opened and placed on the wrist.

  An Art Deco diamond and multi-gem "Wave" bracelet, by Rubel Frères The wide articulated band designed as an old European and circular-cut diamond undulating upper panel, set with five pierced flowers each bezel-set with a pear-shaped diamond pistil and calibré-cut black onyx stems and detail, enhanced by buff-top emerald accents, framed by calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires depicting a floral scene, mounted in platinum, circa 1925, 7½ ins., with French assay marks With maker's mark for Rubel Frères

 

An Art Deco diamond and multi-gem "Wave" bracelet, by Rubel Frères
The wide articulated band designed as an old European and circular-cut diamond undulating upper panel, set with five pierced flowers each bezel-set with a pear-shaped diamond pistil and calibré-cut black onyx stems and detail, enhanced by buff-top emerald accents, framed by calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires depicting a floral scene, mounted in platinum, circa 1925, 7½ ins., with French assay marks

With maker's mark for Rubel Frères

A multi-gem ballerina brooch, by John Rubel  Designed as a dancer set with an inverted rose-cut diamond face, holding the edges of her skirt set with rubies, diamonds and cabochon turquoises, mounted in gold, circa 1945, 7.0 cm Signed John Rubel Co  Image Courtesy of Christie's 

A multi-gem ballerina brooch, by John Rubel 
Designed as a dancer set with an inverted rose-cut diamond face, holding the edges of her skirt set with rubies, diamonds and cabochon turquoises, mounted in gold, circa 1945, 7.0 cm
Signed John Rubel Co 

Image Courtesy of Christie's 

  A diamond, ruby, and turquoise "Clip Danseuse" brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1943. Designed as a ballerina with pear-shaped rose-cut diamond face, her tiara, skirt and bouquet accentuated by circular-cut rubies, old European and single-cut diamonds, and cabochon turquoise; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y. no. 4157; mounted in eighteen karat gold; length: 2 3/4in. Image courtesy of Bonhams

 

A diamond, ruby, and turquoise "Clip Danseuse" brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1943.
Designed as a ballerina with pear-shaped rose-cut diamond face, her tiara, skirt and bouquet accentuated by circular-cut rubies, old European and single-cut diamonds, and cabochon turquoise; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y. no. 4157; mounted in eighteen karat gold; length: 2 3/4in.

Image courtesy of Bonhams

  A ruby and diamond ballerina brooch, attributed to John Rubel. Designed as a dancer set with an inverted rose-cut diamond face, holding the a fan set with rubies and diamonds, mounted in gold, circa 1945, 7.0 cm  

 

A ruby and diamond ballerina brooch, attributed to John Rubel.
Designed as a dancer set with an inverted rose-cut diamond face, holding the a fan set with rubies and diamonds, mounted in gold, circa 1945, 7.0 cm
 

  A famous dancer who performed during the war, her pose captured into this brooch set with diamonds, sapphires, rubies and yellow gold, and signed John Rubel, 1943.

 

A famous dancer who performed during the war, her pose captured into this brooch set with diamonds, sapphires, rubies and yellow gold, and signed John Rubel, 1943.

  A 1945 pin of the "Rockettes, a tribute to the famous American dance troupe that currently still exists. Set in gold, platinum, ruby, sapphire and diamond. 

 

A 1945 pin of the "Rockettes, a tribute to the famous American dance troupe that currently still exists. Set in gold, platinum, ruby, sapphire and diamond. 

  A patent for a perfume dispenser set with turquoise, filed in 1945. The actual completed item later sold at Christies. 

 

A patent for a perfume dispenser set with turquoise, filed in 1945. The actual completed item later sold at Christies.